Precis som maskiner alltmer ersätter människor både i Sverige och USA så ersätter amatörer alltmer traditionella “experter”. Jag sätter ordet expert inom citationstecken för det är tvivelaktigt vad de traditionella amerikanska matkritikerna verkligen var experter på. Javisst de kunde skriva, och ofta bra, men inte lika bra som Woody Allens idag klassiska parodi Fabrizio’s: Criticism and Response by Woody Allen
Pasta, as an expression of Italian Neo-Realistic starch, is well understood by Mario Spinelli, the chef at Fabrizio’s. Spinelli kneads his pasta slowly. He allows a build-up of tension by the customers as they sit salivating. His fettucine, though wry and puckish in an almost mishievous way, owes a lot to Barzino, whose use of fettucine as an instrument of social change is well known. The difference is that at Barzino’s, the patron is led to expect white fettucine and gets it. Here at Fabrizio’s, he gets green fettucine.
Why? It all seems so gratuitous. As customers, we are not prepared for the change. Hence the green noodle does not amuse us. It’s disconcerting in a way unintended by the chef. The linguine, on the other hand, is delicious and not at all didactic. True, there is a pervasive Marxist quality to it, but this is hidden by the sauce. Spinelli has been a devoted Italian Communist for years, and has had great success espousing his Marxism by subtly including it in the tortellini.
Men de gamla experterna hotas nu av skickliga amatörer och Katy McLaughlin skriver om hur bloggare och vox populi nu alltmer övertar restaurangkritiken från de traditionella matkritikerna:
The Price of a Four-Star Rating. Was a free meal behind that glowing online restaurant review? The rising influence of food blogs has chefs plying Web critics with dinners and drinks to avoid bad write-ups.
As online food sites become increasingly influential in the restaurant business, chefs and owners are plying bloggers with free meals to get good write-ups. Some are also posting favorable reviews about themselves on popular Web sites or becoming Internet scribes.
Among those using the tactics are some of the biggest names in the business. Terrance Brennan, co-owner and chef of New York’s Artisanal Bistro and Picholine, hosted a cheese class for bloggers last year, waiving the usual $75-a-person fee. Bill Telepan, chef and co-owner of Telepan in New York, donated a $200, four-course meal to one influential blogger’s online contest. And in Washington, the Park Hyatt’s Blue Duck Tavern says it invited a customer back for a free Father’s Day meal after she posted a negative comment on the Washington Post’s Web site. (In a follow-up post, the diner wrote, “We will definitely return to Blue Duck Tavern,” not mentioning that she had been invited free.)
Vi skulle ut och äta på en kinesisk restaurang i närheten men först kollade jag den populära restaurangsajten Yelp och vad jag läste där fick mig att avstå.
Det här är ännu ett tecken på hur webben och bloggar håller på att förändra våra liv.
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